Like the title says I just wanted to share how great my weekend was. The surf was fantastic! The experts say surfing has a steep learning curve. I agree that my first few sessions didn't go spectacular and much fewer waves were caught than I wanted.
Finally, this weekend it all started to click! I will never be a Kelly Slater but I think I will have more fun than he does. Part of my struggle may be due to the size of my board. My one requirement for my board is it fits in my compact car so that limits its length. I could bore you with details on the science of surf but I will move on. The waves were finally big enough to turn my board into a wave catching machine!
To top it all of there was an amazing sunset tonight. I can not do the scene justice with words. But there is nothing quite like being one of about a dozen people surfing while the sun sets. The beautiful colors of the sky reflect off the glassy water. It seems like everything lights up. It is better than any Christmas morning. When I'm out there on the water, I think about nothing else but the moment I am in. I feel so incredibly lucky to have been surfing today. It's so cliche but so true sometimes the greatest beauty and escape is right in your backyard.
